Depending on your transom design you may or may not have enough room to insert the new cable. Pulling the steering cable is sometimes easier to do after you remove the motor from the transom first.
Pull the steering cable out of the tilt tube.
Removing steering cable from outboard. Sometimes removing your boat steering cables can be an utter bear but with a little help and kinetic persuasion the project can go just about as smoothly as. Removing steering cable from outboard The procedure is to uncouple the rod from the cable as shown in your second picture. Then unscrew the nut in yor first picture enough to remove the cable.
The washer-head bolt is located on top of the steering link rod fastener at the end of the steering cable attached to the engines tilt tube. Remove the locknut–a self-locking nut with a nylon insert–from the end of the washer-head bolt. The locknut is nylon and located beneath the steering link rod fastener.
Obviously remove the greaseable nut linkage and the retainer off the other end. Depending on your transom design you may or may not have enough room to insert the new cable. IE the engine may need to be loosened so the cable will clear the transom.
My prior boat the steering. Pulling the steering cable is sometimes easier to do after you remove the motor from the transom first. It has to be pulled straight out and is hard to do sometimes when the motor is on the transom and there is no slack in the cable.
On some boats this is the only way to remove the cable. Removing your steering cable is relatively easy. Simply disconnect the cable from the steering helm and from the engine using a wrench to loosen bolts that are holding it.
Next find a rope that will be used to assist you in pulling the cable back through the boat. Outboard steering seized stiff tight jammed yamaha cable linkage Once again I know this was a long time back but for those who ever do a search on this topic I came up with a long term fix on this issue. Remove shaft from tube and remove tube from tilt.
Put it on da bench 2. Drill and tap tube in dead centre tap to 18 gas npt or bsp 3. Take it out of that hole and jamb it into the other hole to unlock the steering.
Turn the wheel left if I remember correctly and the cable will feed out. Place pin back in storage hole. There was so much corroded metal and old solidified grease that came out that was left behind with the shotgun brush.
I reinstalled the steering cable using MercuryQuiksilver 2-4C teflon grease. After I buttoned it all back up I can tell the steering is much easier now. I feel good knowing that the extra stress on the helm is no longer an issue.
Knock the cable out of the steering tube with a punch and a hammer. Pull the cable free of the motor and forward until you reach the helm or the steering gear box. Use common pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin that connects the old cable to the helm.
No the steering wheel does not move at all and the cable is fully withdrawn into the tube except for about an inch and it does not move. If you remove the nut from the tube on the side of the motor with the outer covering of the cable then the outer. If steering becomes hard inconsistent cuts on the conduit surface are noticed or any other component found damaged the cable must be replaced immediately.
When storing your boat for an extended period of time we recommend removing the steering cable end. Lifting Outboard Use lifting eye on engine. Steering Cable STARBOARD SIDE ROUTED CABLE 1.
Lubricate the entire cable end. A a - Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon 2. Insert steering cable into tilt tube.
Torque nut to 35 lb. Replacing a boat steering cable can be challenging but its a repair that is totally doable for the mechanically-inclined boat owner. Inspecting Replacing Your Boat Steering Cable - Marine Parts Source.
Avoid using too much as globs of grease will harden over time and cause stiffness and binding. Remove the cable from the engine by removing the steering arm nut and the large cable nut that attaches the cable to the outboard. Pull the cable out from the engines tilt tube.
Remove all the old grease from the cable ram end. Steer the cable all the way out until fully extended and remove all grease and dirt from the inner sleeve of the cable. Pull the steering cable out of the tilt tube.
If the tube has internal corrosion that makes the cable difficult to remove liberally spray a water-excluding lubricant into the tilt tube and wait an hour before removing the cable from the tube. Reconnect the steering cable and reconnect the steering. Removing the old steering system at the helm requires a small three-prong puller.
After the hub is off disconnect the cables from the hub. Before pulling the cables through the gunwale tape a long strong nylon cord to them to act as a chase line. Use a bunch of wraps because it will give you something to use to pull the new hoses toward the helm.
If you only want to remove the steering rod from the tilt tube without removing the tilt tube you can either poud the steering rod out from the port side out through the starboard side. If the rust is simply too great to do this then you should replace the entire steering rod cable assembly because you may never be able to remove the steering rod out through the starboard side. What you have to do is remove the end link on the outboard side of the cable.
Remove the large nut on the opposite side of the cable. And then with a block of wood and a hammer drive the cable out of the tilt tube. From there you can clean up the outside of the cable with sandpaper.
For outboard boats under 25 feet you can expect a replacement steering cable to cost under 130. Teleflex systems are particularly effective where the installation requires long cable runs andor multiple bends between the helm and the engine. A stiff plastic jacket protects the inner cable.
Take the steering arm off and keep spraying in the tube whilst pulling back and forth on the steering cable. It should just slide out after time. Dont use steering wheel.
Grab the steering cable at motor and just pull it out.